45 problems, described the way you would describe them

What your Viking is doing, and what it usually means.

Start here if there is nothing useful on the display — and on this make there very often is not. The grills, the ice machines and the hoods publish no code at all, the dishwashers flash two lights instead of showing one, and the current ranges turn a knob ring red. Every page below says what it usually means, what to check yourself first, and what it costs if it is a repair.

Book a diagnostic (305) 697-3843

45 problems, each with its own page
11 appliance types, cold and hot
21 linked to a published condition
from $95 diagnostic, credited to the repair

By what it is doing

Every problem we are called about

Grouped by appliance rather than by part, because nobody searches for a diverter valve. Where the appliance publishes something, the page names it; where it publishes nothing, the page carries the diagnosis itself.

It clicks, and nothing happens
Burner will not light

A burner that clicks and never catches, or catches and drops out a few seconds later. The appliance will tell you nothing about it — this maker publishes no code for gas — so the diagnosis is entirely in what the burner does.
- Clicks and clicks without lighting
- Lights and goes out after a few seconds
- One burner out while the rest are fine
What it usually means
Lazy on one side of the ring
Open burner flame uneven or yellow

A flame that is blue on one side and yellow and lazy on the other, or a ring that never quite makes a full circle. On an open burner this is visible, reachable and usually free to correct.
- Yellow or orange tips on one side
- Part of the ring not lighting at all
- Sooting on the bottom of the pan
What it usually means
Low is not low, or low goes out
Simmer will not hold

A burner that will not stay lit on its lowest setting, or a "low" that is still hot enough to boil. On professional equipment the simmer is a specification rather than an afterthought, and a burner that has lost it can be brought back.
- The flame goes out at the lowest setting
- Low is far hotter than it used to be
- It holds until a lid goes on, then drops out
What it usually means
Cold in the middle of a wide range
Griddle not heating

The griddle on a 48-inch range or rangetop, cold or heating only in patches. It is the least-used surface in the kitchen and the one most likely to have seized quietly since the last time it was asked.
- Cold everywhere
- Hot in the middle, cold at one end
- Takes far longer to come up than it used to
What it usually means
On the 7 Series, the knob is the display
Knob lights turned red

On the current ranges the backlight behind the knobs goes red and a ring flashes a count. That is this appliance reporting an error — and the count is evidence that disappears the moment anything is switched off.
- The backlight has changed to red
- A knob ring flashing a repeating count
- Nothing on any display, because there is not one
What it usually means
The display often names the part
Oven not heating

An oven that sets a temperature and stays cold, or heats on one mode and not another. On this make the message is usually in words rather than in numbers, and RTD ERROR names the sensor outright.
- Sets a temperature and stays cold
- Broils but will not bake
- A message in words on the display
What it usually means
Obedient, and aiming at the wrong number
Oven temperature wrong or uneven

An oven that heats perfectly to a temperature that is not the one you set, or browns on one side and undercooks on the other. Almost always a measurement problem rather than a heating one.
- Everything browning too fast or too slowly
- One side or one shelf consistently darker
- Baking that changed without anything else changing
What it usually means
The cycle that finds everything
Oven dead after a self-clean

An oven that ran a clean cycle and has not worked since. It is one of the most predictable calls on this equipment, and it is not because anything was done wrong.
- Worked before the clean cycle, dead after it
- The door still locked
- A message that appeared during or after the cycle
What it usually means
LATCH ERROR, in words
Oven door locked shut

A door the control cannot unlock, usually after a self-clean. This make publishes it as LATCH ERROR in plain English, which is as clear as a diagnosis gets.
- Locked since a clean cycle
- LATCH ERROR on the display
- The latch audibly trying and not moving
What it usually means
The gap you cannot see
Oven door not closing properly

A door that does not sit flush, springs back, or closes on a gap at one corner. On a French-door oven there are two leaves that have to arrive at the seal together, which adds a way for it to go wrong.
- A visible gap at one corner
- The door springs back slightly
- Heat or steam escaping at one edge
What it usually means
KEYBOARD ERROR, and what it is not
Oven controls not responding

A panel that ignores presses, responds to the wrong one, or has gone dark. On this make there are three separate published messages behind it and they are three different repairs.
- Some keys work and others do not
- The panel is lit and ignoring everything
- A message in words rather than a number
What it usually means
The cheapest part in the oven
Meat probe not working

PROBE ERROR on the display, or a probe reading nonsense. This is the least expensive thing that can be wrong with the appliance and it is worth eliminating before anything else.
- PROBE ERROR on the display
- A temperature that is obviously wrong
- The message appearing with no probe in use
What it usually means
Scale, in a city with hard water
Steam oven not making steam

A combi steam oven that heats and produces nothing, or produces steam for a few minutes and stops. In South Florida this is a water story far more often than an electrical one.
- Heats but no steam at all
- Steam for a few minutes then nothing
- A tank that empties without producing anything
What it usually means
Not a failure — an interval
Steam oven asking to be descaled

DESCALING IS NECESSARY on the display. This is the appliance doing exactly what it should, and it is one of the few messages on this site that costs nothing to resolve.
- A descaling message on the display
- Steam production slightly down
- The message returning sooner than expected
What it usually means
Folded in under the oven
Warming drawer not heating

A warming drawer that stays cold, or one that runs at one temperature whatever it is set to. A contained appliance with a short list of things that go wrong.
- Cold at every setting
- One temperature regardless of the dial
- A drawer that will not switch on at all
What it usually means
One zone, or all of them
Cooktop not heating

A zone that stays cold while the rest work, or a whole cooktop that lights up and never heats. On this make the answer depends entirely on which kind of top is in the counter.
- One zone cold, the rest fine
- Every zone cold with the panel lit
- It heats for a moment and stops
What it usually means
Nothing at all, or nothing that lasts
Cooktop will not turn on

A cooktop that shows nothing when it is touched, or comes on and shuts itself down immediately. On the tops with a display this often arrives with a token that names the board rather than the elements.
- No response to the power key at all
- It powers up and shuts straight down
- A token in the timer window at start-up
What it usually means
Often a spill, sometimes the sun
Cooktop controls locked or unresponsive

A touch panel that ignores you, or a cooktop that shuts every zone down and reports a key error. A large share of these are liquid, a cloth or direct sunlight, and every one of those is free to correct.
- The panel does not respond to touch
- A key error token in the timer window
- It only happens at a particular time of day
What it usually means
Usually heat, and usually the cabinet
Cooktop zone shuts down mid-cook

A zone that works and then stops part-way through cooking, sometimes with a flashing count and sometimes with nothing at all. On induction this is very often the electronics protecting themselves rather than failing.
- It runs for a while and cuts out
- Only at high power, or only in summer
- A count of flashes with no display to read
What it usually means
The cooktop is refusing, not failing
Induction not recognizing the pan

A zone that flashes, beeps or simply does nothing with a pan on it. Nine times out of ten this is the cookware, and a magnet settles it in five seconds without anybody being called.
- The zone flashes with a pan in place
- It works with some pans and not others
- A smaller pan works and a larger one does not, or the reverse
What it usually means
A hum is better news than silence
Range hood not extracting

A hood that does nothing, hums without turning, or runs and moves no air. Three different repairs behind one complaint, and the cheapest of them is very common.
- No response at all from any speed
- A hum with no rotation
- It runs but the kitchen still fills with steam
What it usually means
A separate circuit entirely
Range hood lights not working

Lamps that have gone out while the fan works perfectly, or lights that flicker. A separate circuit from the motor, and usually the least expensive call on this list.
- One lamp out, the rest fine
- All lamps out with the fan still working
- Flickering, or lights that come on and drop out
What it usually means
Everything works except the cooking
Microwave runs but does not heat

The turntable turns, the light is on, the fan runs and the food stays cold. It is the most recognizable microwave failure and it usually points at one part of the appliance.
- Everything runs and nothing gets warm
- It heats weakly compared with before
- Heating that has become intermittent
What it usually means
The mechanism, not the cooking
Microwave drawer will not open

A DrawerMicro that will not slide out, opens part-way, or will not close again. It is a motorized mechanism a door microwave does not have, and it is the most common call on this appliance.
- It will not open at all
- It opens part-way and stops
- It opens and will not close, so nothing will run
What it usually means
SENSOR ERROR is usually not a problem
Microwave controls behaving oddly

Programs that stop early, a message about the sensor, or a panel that responds to the wrong key. On this make one of the common messages here is not a failure at all.
- SENSOR ERROR during an automatic program
- A program that stops before it should
- Keys responding intermittently
What it usually means
Start at the condenser, not the compressor
Refrigerator not cooling

A cabinet that is running and not getting cold, or getting cold and not staying there. Most of these are not the sealed system, and in this city the first thing to look at is the condenser.
- Running constantly and still warm
- Cold at first and warming through the day
- A high temperature alarm or an E-code on the display
What it usually means
The door usually is open
Door alarm keeps sounding

An alarm that goes off with the door apparently shut. On tall paneled columns the door genuinely is not sealing far more often than the alarm is wrong, and it is the cheapest call on the appliance.
- An alarm with the door looking closed
- It sounds after a few minutes every time
- An open-door message on an integrated cabinet
What it usually means
Defrost, and then the airflow it blocks
Frost building up inside

Ice at the back wall, on the evaporator cover, or around the drawers. It is a defrost condition, and left alone it eventually blocks the airflow and produces the warm-refrigerator call as well.
- Ice on the back wall or the evaporator cover
- Frost that returns after being cleared
- One compartment warming while the other is fine
What it usually means
An interval, not a failure
Filter or maintenance message showing

A filter button turned blue, a CL on the display, a bulb indicator or a condenser reminder. All of these are the appliance asking for maintenance rather than reporting a problem.
- A filter indicator that has come on
- CL flashing on the temperature display
- A message asking for the condenser to be checked
What it usually means
Which noise, and when
Refrigerator making a new noise

Buzzing, clicking, rattling or a hum that has changed. Some of it is normal and some of it is a fan telling you it is on its way, and the difference is usually in when the noise happens.
- A rattle or buzz that comes and goes
- A hum that is louder than it used to be
- Clicking every few minutes
What it usually means
On this make, it may be its own appliance
Freezer not freezing

A freezer that is soft rather than solid, or a column that has warmed while the refrigerator beside it is perfect. On this make those two cabinets are frequently two separate machines.
- Ice cream soft, everything else still frozen
- A whole column warm while the one next to it is fine
- Frost gone from the walls, which is a warning sign
What it usually means
Where the ice is, is the answer
Freezer icing up

Ice on the walls, ice around the drawers, or a solid sheet across the evaporator cover. Frost in a freezer is normal in small amounts and diagnostic in large ones.
- Ice that returns after being cleared
- Drawers that will not close
- A sheet of ice behind the rear panel
What it usually means
A glass door is a real thermal load
Wine cellar not cooling

A cabinet running warm, or running and never reaching its set point. In a kitchen where the air conditioning goes off during the day, a glass door changes the arithmetic considerably.
- Warmer than the set point all day
- Cooling at night and not in the afternoon
- An E-code on the display
What it usually means
On a two-zone cabinet, which zone matters
Wine cellar temperature wrong or swinging

One zone right and the other not, or a temperature that will not sit still. Stability matters more than the number here, and on a dual-zone cabinet the code means something different from what it means anywhere else on this make.
- One zone correct, the other several degrees out
- A temperature that swings through the day
- A display flashing an E-number
What it usually means
Water in, water out, and scale
Ice machine not making ice

A machine that runs and produces nothing, or produces far less than it used to. This maker publishes no code for any ice machine, so it is diagnosed entirely from what it does.
- Running with an empty bin
- Production down noticeably
- Ice that forms and never releases
What it usually means
Start at the drain, every time
Water under the ice machine

Water on the floor of the cabinet or under the kickplate. On this equipment the drain is required rather than optional, and it is where most of these end.
- Water pooling under the unit
- A damp cabinet base with no obvious source
- Water only after a harvest cycle
What it usually means
Usually the bin, not the machine
Ice tastes or smells wrong

Ice that smells of the freezer, tastes of the water, or has taken on something from the kitchen. It is rarely a mechanical problem and it is usually free to resolve.
- A musty or stale smell to the ice
- A taste that appeared after a quiet month
- Cloudy ice as well as an odor
What it usually means
Count them — the pair is the message
Dishwasher lights flashing

A Viking dishwasher has no error code. Two lights on the front flash a count each, and the pair of counts is the entire diagnostic vocabulary of the appliance.
- Cycle buttons flashing rather than lit
- Two lights flashing different counts
- Both lights flashing continuously
What it usually means
Usually the plumbing, not the machine
Dishwasher not draining

Water standing in the bottom at the end of a cycle. Six things are worth checking before anybody is called, and between them they resolve most of these.
- Water in the bottom after a cycle
- One flash then five on the front lights
- It drains slowly rather than not at all
What it usually means
Three checks outside the machine
Dishwasher not filling

A machine that runs a cycle without water, or fills far more slowly than it should. Like the drain, most of this is outside the appliance.
- A cycle running with no water
- Two flashes then two on the front lights
- Filling much more slowly than it used to
What it usually means
Door, latch, and the four-second reset
Dishwasher will not start

A machine that does nothing when the cycle is selected, or starts and stops immediately. Two of the causes are free to check and one of them is a habit rather than a malfunction.
- Nothing happens when START is pressed
- The start light blinks and nothing runs
- It runs for a moment and stops
What it usually means
Rinse aid, plastics, and the sanitize light
Dishes coming out wet

Dishes that are clean and wet, or plastics that never dry while everything else does. Some of this is how modern dishwashers work and some of it is a real condition.
- Everything wet at the end of a cycle
- Plastics wet while china is dry
- The sanitize indicator not lighting
What it usually means
Ignition is a wear part out here
Grill burner will not light

A built-in grill that clicks and does not catch, or lights on one burner and not another. It publishes no code of any kind, and in salt air the ignition hardware is a consumable.
- Clicking with no ignition
- One burner lighting, another not
- It lit at the start of the season and not now
What it usually means
Usually a tube not carrying its length
Grill heating unevenly

One end hot and the other cold, or a grill that will not reach the temperature it used to. On a built-in with several burners the pattern is the diagnosis.
- One zone cold or much cooler
- It will not reach searing temperature any more
- Flames uneven along a burner tube
What it usually means
The maker says to expect it here
Rust on a stainless grill

Surface rust on stainless steel outdoors near the ocean is something this manufacturer warns about in its own FAQ. On this coast it is the address rather than a defect, and it is not usually a repair.
- Orange speckling on stainless panels
- Rust appearing within the first year
- Marks that come back after being cleaned off
What it usually means

Eight of these are here to save you a visit

Some of what looks like a problem is not one.

A pan that is not induction cookware. A cooling fan running on after the oven is off, exactly as it should. A refrigerator asking for its filter. CL on a display, which is a request to clean the coils. Ice that smells of the bin rather than the machine. Surface rust the manufacturer itself says to expect on this coastline. A dishwasher whose disposal plug was never knocked out. A steam oven asking to be descaled.

Every one of those has a page here that says so plainly, before you have paid anybody to come out and tell you. On a site whose purpose is to get the phone to ring, that is a deliberate cost, and it is the right one.

What each repair costs

A white counter with an induction hob under a long window

Before you call anybody

Four things that are free and often enough

Every symptom page here opens with one of these. None costs anything, and on a badge that covers a professional range and a wine cellar, each ends a different kind of call.

Or start from the machine

By appliance, if you would rather

Eleven kinds of appliance under one badge, and what a symptom means depends on which one is showing it. Each page covers the failures that belong to that machine.

Open burner · Sealed burner · Dual fuel · Electric · Induction · 24" to 66"
Ranges

The appliance this brand is named for, and the one place it does something nobody else does: an open burner that comes apart in your hands. Gas, dual fuel, all-electric and induction are all sold under the same badge, and a range that will not light and a range that will not heat are two completely different visits.
- A burner that sparks and never catches
- An oven that will not reach or hold temperature
- A door still locked hours after a self-clean
Range repair
Gas · Electric · Induction · Professional rangetop · 24" to 48"
Cooktops & rangetops

Two appliances and one word. A rangetop is a range's burner deck with cabinetry under it instead of an oven; a cooktop is the lighter equipment that drops into a worktop. Gas, electric and induction behind them fail in three unrelated ways, and only one of the three is really about heat.
- A zone that shuts itself down mid-cook
- The surface refusing to see a pan
- Controls locked, or answering a wet cloth
Cooktop repair
Single · Double · French-door · RVL steam · Warming drawer
Wall ovens & warming drawers

Built-in ovens in every configuration this brand has sold — single, double, French-door, and the RVL steam oven that stacks with them — plus the warming drawer underneath, which is repaired here even though it has no card of its own. On a double oven the first question is always which of the two cavities.
- One cavity of a double not heating
- Temperature that is wrong rather than absent
- A warming drawer that stays cold
Oven repair
Wall · Chimney · Island · Liner · Rear downdraft · Ceiling
Ventilation

Wall hoods, chimney hoods, the liners hidden inside joinery, ceiling units and the rear downdrafts that rise out of the counter. It is the shortest parts list in the kitchen — motor, capacitor, switch, lights, damper, filters — and the appliance most likely to be quietly running at half its output for a year.
- A blower that hums and will not turn
- Speeds that no longer change
- Grease finding its way back into the room
Range hood repair
Built-in · Convection · Microwave hood · Drawer
Microwaves

Countertop models set into a trim kit, convection models, drawer models and the microwave hoods that do two jobs at once. The mechanical half — doors, latches, turntables, drawer mechanisms, touch panels — is ordinary repair work. The high-voltage half is not, and is the one part of a kitchen nobody should open.
- A door latch that no longer starts the cycle
- A drawer that opens part-way and stops
- It runs, it lights, and nothing gets hot
Microwave repair
Side-by-side · Bottom-freezer · French-door · Integrated · Undercounter
Built-in refrigeration

The largest part of this brand's catalog and the appliance most likely to be built into the joinery rather than standing in a gap. Side-by-sides, French-door and bottom-freezer columns, fully integrated units behind cabinet panels, and the undercounter refrigerators and drawers that run down an island.
- A fridge cooling while the freezer does not
- Water at the dispenser stopping
- Ice on the back wall, or water under the drawer
Refrigerator repair
All Freezer · Custom panel · Fully integrated · 30" and 36"
All Freezer columns

A card of its own because on this brand a freezer usually is its own appliance: a full-height All Freezer column standing beside an All Refrigerator, the two joined under one grille kit so they look like a single unit. When one of the pair stops, the other keeps working, and nothing about the kitchen looks different.
- A column that has drifted warm without warning
- Frost building where it never used to
- The ice maker inside it stopping first
Freezer repair
Undercounter · Full-height · Glass door · Solid door · Single and dual zone
Wine cellars

Undercounter cellars of 24 and 45 bottles, full-height units, glass-door and solid-door models, single and dual zone. The mechanism is refrigeration; the requirement is not. A cellar that holds 48°F instead of 55°F is failing at its only job while looking completely normal.
- A zone holding the wrong temperature
- Condensation inside the glass
- A compressor that runs and runs
Wine cellar repair
Clear ice · Nugget ice · Undercounter · Panel ready · With drain pump
Ice machines

A plumbed appliance with a drain, which is what separates it from the ice maker inside a freezer and explains most of what goes wrong with it. Clear ice up to 65 pounds a day, nugget up to 80, and a bin that holds 26 — so a machine that seems slow is often a machine that is draining badly.
- Production falling off without stopping
- Water where it should not be
- Ice that is cloudy, small or fused together
Ice machine repair
Stainless front · Panel ready · Undercounter · 18" and 24"
Dishwashers

Stainless-fronted and panel-ready models, all of them Energy Star, all built around a variable-speed motor that changes water pressure with the cycle. It is also the appliance in this line most likely to report an error on its own display, which makes the first phone call much shorter.
- A cycle that stops part-way with water in the tub
- Dishes coming out gritty or still wet
- A code on the panel and a cycle that will not start
Dishwasher repair
Built-in · Freestanding · Side burners · Natural gas and LP
Outdoor grills

Built-in and freestanding gas grills and the side burners beside them — the only appliance on this site that lives in the weather. Ignition and gas account for most of what goes wrong; corrosion accounts for most of what is behind it, and in this service area that is not bad luck, it is the coastline.
- Ignition that clicks without lighting
- One burner low or uneven while the rest are fine
- Rust appearing on stainless that was clean
Grill repair

Nothing on the display?

On most of this equipment there is nothing to read.

The grills publish no code. Neither do the ice machines, the hoods, or any gas burner this maker has ever built. The dishwashers flash two lights and the current ranges turn a knob ring red and flash a count nobody publishes. That is not a gap in this site — it is how this equipment reports, and every page here is written for it.

Tell us the model number and exactly what the appliance is doing, and we can usually tell you what it is before anyone comes out. Call (305) 697-3843, or describe it in the form above.

Call (305) 697-3843 Describe it in the form

Questions we get first

Before you describe it

There is no code on my machine. Does that mean nothing is wrong?

No. On a lot of this equipment there is nothing to read at all - the dishwasher publishes no codes, and the gas side has no display to put one on. The behavior is the diagnosis on those machines, which is what the pages on this list are for.

One burner will not light and the others are fine. Is that serious?

Usually not, and it is one of the shortest visits we make. On an open burner the cap, the grate and the bowl all lift out, and a burner that clicks without catching is very often one of them sitting proud after a clean, or a port blocked by something that boiled over. Near the water it can also be a corroded igniter.

Everything went strange after a power cut. What should I try?

Five genuine minutes off at the breaker, then back on. Storm season here leaves a run of electronics complaints behind it and a good share clear exactly that way. If it comes back, it is real and worth the call.

The wine cellar temperature keeps moving. Is that a failure?

Not always. A cabinet with a glass door in a humid room swings more than a solid-door one, and a zone that drifts when the door has been opened is doing physics rather than failing. A zone that will not come back is a different matter, and the page for it says which is which.

My problem is not on this page.

Describe it in your own words when you get in touch. Forty-five behaviors are written out here and that is what we are asked about most often, not the limit of what we look at.

In more detail

Viking range problems, and the rest of what people describe

Some of what looks like a problem is not one

Worth saying first, because it saves visits. An open burner that takes a moment to catch is doing what an open burner does. A new range that smells for its first few hours is burning off a coating. A refrigerator that runs almost without stopping in August is holding its set point in a room that is fighting it. A wine cabinet with a glass door swings more than one with a solid door. Forty-five behaviors are written out on this site, and several of the pages exist to tell you plainly that nothing is wrong.

Where there is nothing to read

The dishwasher on this badge publishes no error codes at all, and the gas side has no display to put one on. That means the description is the diagnosis on a large share of this equipment rather than a stepping stone to a number, which is why these pages are written in the words people use when they call rather than in part names.

Where the same words mean different repairs

“Not cooling” is the clearest case: on built-in refrigeration it can be a condenser choked with dust and salt, an evaporator fan, a defrost circuit, a damper or a sealed system – five repairs, and the cheapest and the dearest are a long way apart. “The hood is not working” is the same shape: blower, capacitor, damper, switch, or only the lights. The pages separate behavior from cause for exactly this reason.

What South Florida contributes

Heat, salt and outages. Condensers work harder for more months of the year here than almost anywhere. Near the water, coils, burner caps and igniters corrode years early, and the ice machine and the outdoor grill feel it first. Storm season leaves a run of electronics complaints, a fair share of which clear with five real minutes at the breaker.

What to have ready

The model number from the plate, one line about what the appliance is doing, and a photograph if there is anything on a display. On a machine with nothing to read, say what you can hear, see or smell – it is the same evidence in another form.

Describe it in your own words.

You do not need to know which part it is. What it does, when it started, and the model number are enough for us to say what is likely and what it should cost.

Schedule a visit Call (305) 697-3843

This article is based on:

Official manufacturer documentation
Internal repair procedures
Technician repair history
Company quality standards

What your Viking is doing, and what it usually means.

Burner will not light

Open burner flame uneven or yellow

Simmer will not hold

Griddle not heating

Knob lights turned red

Oven not heating

Oven temperature wrong or uneven

Oven dead after a self-clean

Oven door locked shut

Oven door not closing properly

Oven controls not responding

Meat probe not working

Steam oven not making steam

Steam oven asking to be descaled

Warming drawer not heating

Cooktop not heating

Cooktop will not turn on

Cooktop controls locked or unresponsive

Cooktop zone shuts down mid-cook

Induction not recognizing the pan

Range hood not extracting

Range hood lights not working

Microwave runs but does not heat

Microwave drawer will not open

Microwave controls behaving oddly

Refrigerator not cooling

Door alarm keeps sounding

Frost building up inside

Filter or maintenance message showing

Refrigerator making a new noise

Freezer not freezing

Freezer icing up

Wine cellar not cooling

Wine cellar temperature wrong or swinging

Ice machine not making ice

Water under the ice machine

Ice tastes or smells wrong

Dishwasher lights flashing

Dishwasher not draining

Dishwasher not filling

Dishwasher will not start

Dishes coming out wet

Grill burner will not light

Grill heating unevenly

Rust on a stainless grill

Ranges

Cooktops & rangetops

Wall ovens & warming drawers

Ventilation

Microwaves

Built-in refrigeration

All Freezer columns

Wine cellars

Ice machines

Dishwashers

Outdoor grills